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Hello Ginger!

You are looking at the last of the palm oil soap!

I used up my last bit with this batch, a rebatch of the ginger, calendula and coconut milk soap that I just didn’t like the shape of.

This bar is massive, but it smells incredible. I added a couple sample bottles of Ginger Fish to boost the ginger fragrance. Wow. When I say it smells like Bundaberg, I mean that in the best way possible. Bundaberg is a fantastic brand of ginger beer from Australia – makes the best Dark & Stormy’s (Gosling’s Dark Rum + Ginger Beer + Lime = awesome).

So I’m taking deep breaths of this one and thinking about a trip to World Market from some Bundaberg…

ginger, coconut milk and calendula soap

Of swirls, scents and seas…

Swirling continues to confound me.

I’m really hoping it’s the mold, but after viewing every YouTube video on swirling techniques, I’m thinking it’s probably just me. Poo.

I know the trick lies in knowing when to pour, not to let the soap get too far into trace, but my formula is quite shea heavy, which accelerates trace.

This soap was supposed to be swirled, and it wasn’t going to have embeds in it, but now it kind of looks like an alien planet.

It’s another batch of Orange Wedge, this time colored with annatto infused olive oil at about a 15% total oils rate.

orange bergamot chamomile scented soap

This is what the first batch of Orange Wedge looked like:

orange bergamot chamomile scented soap

The orange embeds were colored with tomato, but it’s been over two months since that batch was made, and it’s faded drastically. It’s actually the almost same color as the above soap now.

I’m hoping to achieve a more reliable orange with the annatto infusion.

Another colored batch that didn’t turn out quite as planned is the newly rechristened Raspberry Lemonade:

raspberry lemon scented soap

It was supposed to Pink Lemonade: a paler pink and only scented with lemon, but the madder root infused oil was very dark.

But it does smell delicious, so I may call this one a happy accident.

I have had some success so far this weekend, though.  Another batch of Baker Street turned out just as pretty as the first two, swirled with charcoal.

And Briny Deep finally has a fragrance! After testing several different fragrances, it’s naturally a three fragrance blend that balances a marine salt tang with sun-baked pine and seaside spice. I made a larger batch colored with woad powder, but I’ve ordered some ultramarine blue to try next weekend.

briny deep scented soap

A close up of the highly textured top, meant to look like an angry sea:

close up of briny deep soap

This was originally going to be a Salt Bar, but I’ve decided to make Briny Deep its own fragrance, and I’ll do Salt Bars in a variety of fragrances. I like the sound of a lavender salt bar colored with alkanet infused oil…

Well, at least they were cheap!

So I won’t be using plastic molds again:

plastic + cold process = whoops!

Learned a few things:

1. Cold process and plastic are not always friends

2. The freezer helps a little

3. Cut plastic is sharp

Those soaps are some very small test batches – actually one batch of soap split up five ways (the fifth bar is invisible).

The top left, the oval bar, is colored with turmeric. It was bright orange going into the mold, but has faded considerably. It’s also noticeably speckled. I used about 1/4 tsp in ~3 oz of soap.

The pink bar in the middle top row is colored with madder root added directly to the soap batter, at 1/4 tsp to ~3 oz. It’s also noticeably speckled and the bits of madder powder can be felt when washing. I like this better as an infused oil, but could have application in an exfoliating-type bar.

The bluish-green, sadly more green than blue, bar, the one on the top right, is colored with woad powder added directly to the soap, at 1/2 tsp to ~3 oz. This may be too much, since the lather was noticeably bluish in color. Like the madder and turmeric, the woad powder can also be seen and felt in the soap.

The soap on the bottom is just sprinkled with a bit of nettle leaf powder.

I tested five different fragrance oils in these bars, too. I’m most pleased with the blend I came up with for Briny Deep, which is what’s in the woad colored bar.

The madder bar is scented with Energy from Bramble Berry – beautiful scent. No wonder it’s a best seller!

I’m also really happy with the invisible bar, which was left pure ivory and scented with a beautiful soft floral – lily, jasmine, lilac… All right, here’s a shoddy cell phone picture of it:

garden path floral soap

It’ll probably be a second wave soap – not the starting line up, but the next batch of fragrances.

More pics and results tomorrow! And a batch of reclaimed ginger scented soap is sleeping now…

Roses and incense

What’s your favorite scent?

Mine seems to change with every new soap I make!

I was kind of worried about making this rose scented soap, because due to early childhood exposure, fake rose smells always remind me of bathrooms. Gross.

But since it was Bramble Berry, I gave it the benefit of the doubt, and I’m glad I did!

Baby Rose is such a fresh, clean realistic rose scent, and I got the perfect shade from madder root infused olive oil. I did this one at 35% infused oil, so it came out deeper than the Berrywine scented soap from a couple weeks ago. Very pleased with this.

And it’s given me an idea for the lemon fragrance oil – Pink Lemonade! Does anyone know if madder root is susceptible to discoloring the way alkanet powder is? I have Bramble Berry’s new ebook on natural colorants, and it shows how citrus fragrance totally changed a beautiful lavender shade to an equally pretty, but totally unexpected green! That’s why it’s important to make small batches with new colors and FOs!

The reason this post was not added yesterday is because the soap on the left didn’t behave. It’s still on the very soft side of the scale, but at least it was firm enough to cut. It should cure okay, but it probably won’t be a very hard bar.

It’s scented with Nag Champa and patchouli, and swirled with charcoal powder. I had hoped the base soap would turn a darker brown, so if I make this one again I may help it along with some cocoa powder. I’m just not sure I like the scent that much… but it may just not be to my taste. It might be better without the patchouli.

I am happy with the swirl, though! I think one of the reasons I’m ending up with soft batches is that I’m still learning the difference between emulsified and thin trace.

This batch and the other Baker Street batch that was soft, were both very easy to pour – very liquid – when I swirled them. Makes for a beautiful swirl, but the soap takes longer to set.

I think I need to bring the base closer to thin trace, then separate for color, then add the fragrance oil to uncolored soap, hand stir and swirl. If it’s a fragrance I can trust I can probably add it before coloring, though.

nag champa and patchouli soap and rose scented soap

Well, I’m expecting 10 pounds of coconut oil by the end of the week, so I’m looking forward to an active three-day weekend of soaping! :)

Back in the saddle

Made three successful batches yesterday – and have my final, absolute, no I mean it this time, this is it, perfect no palm oil formula down. It’s a full 10% lovely unrefined natural shea butter – so nice.

I didn’t take a picture of Tabula Rasa, but it’s a plain bar – unscented. This batch turned out beautifully, much firmer already than some of the other formulas I’ve tried. Should cure nicely.

Then I did another citrus batch, this time with a lemon fragrance oil. I used annatto seed for color again, but I think it’s just a bit too orange for what I was going for. Still, the fragrance is wonderful! For now, I’m calling it Lemon Aide.

lemon scented soap

I attempted a funnel swirl on this one, but I don’t think I have the hang of it yet.

I am pleased with the swirl on the last batch I did yesterday. This one smells like leather and is swirled with dark cocoa powder! It’s called Fetish.

leather scented soap

I have a rose scented, madder root colored batch and a nag champa & patchouli blend with a charcoal swirl under wraps right now. Can’t wait to see how they turn out!

Before we start hearing crickets…

I wanted to post a quick update, before the crickets start chirping and the grass grows to our knees…

Sorry, I’m on cold medicine, and it makes me a bit loopy, but in a strangely pleasant, “this is how bad poetry gets written” kind of way… Think I’ll watch Bright Star on Netflix this evening. Nah, we have too many episodes of Galactica to watch… I love having a show to catch up on.

ellicott city

Anyhow, soap. I was in the Baltimore area this weekend (woot!) with my amazing crew of pirates, jugglers, musicians and freaks, and was so touched by the reception to my soaps. Jay and I live in a very small place – town population is around 500 – so it’s easy to operate as if you were the only person on the planet. Being an only child only makes it more likely that I will slip into isolation and forget the outside world.

I have mailed soap to friends and family in far-flung places, but to see such a positive reaction from actual live humans was very encouraging. I will be experimenting with a few more Bramble Berry fragrances this weekend. I’m trying to hammer down a good opening line, with something for just about every taste.

This is what I have right now:

  • Orange Wedge: A beautiful citrus - bergamot & chamomile plus orange essential oil.
  • Island Time: A wonderful fruity blend of mango, pineapple & coconut.
  • Blush: The amazing Berrywine fragrance tinted with madder root, also fruity, but very crisp
  • Head Strong: My shampoo bar with the clean scent of peppermint and rosemary.
  • Innsmouth: A working name for this soap, it’s a clean, ocean scent. I’m still not sure what to call it. It’s tinted with indigo, but I may use a smaller dose of alkanet powder, and see what color I can achieve.
  • Provence: It’s Lavender. It’s awesome. It’s naturally a floral.
  • Lucky: A fresh, grassy blend of clover and aloe swirled with nettle leaf
  • Forest Moon: A gorgeous pine blend, grassy and clean.
  • Baker Street: A spicy blend of tobacco and black tea, already a hit with the guys.
  • Calico Jack: Bay Rum, Lime and Tobacco – spicy goodness.
  • Orchid Thief: A warm sweet vanilla scent.
  • Coffee Cake: Chocolate, almond coffee cake to be exact. Very sweet, may find teeth marks in this one!

I’m testing a Meyer lemon fragrance this weekend, as well as a rose floral and Nag Champa, if I’m well enough.

The naming is the hardest part!

Confession: Sometimes I have a name before I even have a soap for it! Names came like lightning for a while – quick, bright, and devastatingly perfect.

Lately, though, I’ve been stuck. I go around and around in my head trying to find a balance between catchy and memorable, masculine and feminine, creative and familiar.

I was going to call this one Sunburst, until I saw it, and smelled it.

It’s scented with Lemongrass and Litsea Cubeba essential oils. It’s more golden than yellow, and to me, it smells like lemon Pledge.

Yeah. I’m less than thrilled with it, but the funny thing about scent is that it’s very subjective. Someone out there probably loves this scent, while it makes me think of housework!

This is also the soap that I thought was ruined because I left out the castor bean oil. I’ve tongue-tested it for zap, and strangely, there isn’t any. I’m glad, because it’ll probably at least be a useable soap.

It’s also the first time I tried an in-the-pot swirl, and I’m not sure if the results would have been different if I hadn’t forgotten the castor bean oil.

The next soap is my proof that Hayley from Paintbox Soaps is right: Soap Everything. For some fragrances, there is a tremendous difference from the bottle to the batch.

This next soap I made with a fragrance oil that I thought was a bit stinky in the bottle, but something about it intrigued me enough to give it a chance.

I used some madder root infused olive oil, too, at 40% of the total olive oil, but it did not turn out as dark as the madder infusion in Island Time, as you can see in this picture, where they’re side by side, Island Time on the left.

If I make this one again, I’ll increase the amount of madder. I like the pale pink, but it could be a titch darker and I’d be happier. I’m calling this one Berry Blush for now.

The final soap of yesterday’s round was another version of my shampoo bar, Head Strong. This one has always been a palm oil-free bar, since I wanted to keep the creaminess of the lather down. I absolutely love this scent, too. It’s a peppermint rosemary Aveda type that is so bright and refreshing.

I did this batch without the rosemary and nettle tea. I like it better, the color is cleaner looking, a pale ivory.

I’m plotting my next order of fragrance oils now. Will definitely buy more lavender, but I’d like another floral. I may try Baby Rose from Bramble Berry.

Some results and some questions

What’s more important to you? That a product is organic or that it’s sustainable? Can it be one without the other?

I’ve written about my concerns with palm oil before. I’ve formulated soap that doesn’t really need it, but I find myself drawn towards simplicity. I know that amazing soap doesn’t have to have every ingredient under the sun in it – that what matters most is the quality, the freshness of each oil, of the additives – the fragrance and essential oils, the colorants used, whether natural or synthetic.

I’m considering the virtues of a four oil soap… will keep you posted. For now, pictures!

First up, the two soaps from last weekend.

This is the one that seized immediately upon adding the fragrance oil. I was all set to write it off, but it smells so gorgeous I may have to give it a pass. It’s a very spicy, masculine scent – almost smells like Aramis cologne, which totally reminds me of my dad – and I had planned to swirl a small amount of cocoa powder into it for contrast with the amber color, but it had other plans. I’m really just relieved it ended up being a decent batch, though. I’m calling it Silk Road.

The next photo is another Baker Street batch, with a slightly different fragrance oil. I also swirled this one with charcoal powder, but used less. I think I like more! I do like the swirl pattern on the top, though.

Now for yesterday’s soaps, both of which I very happy with.

Orchid Thief has a slightly different, better in my opinion, vanilla fragrance oil. I’m not sure if it will darken as much as the first batch did, but I love the contrast right now.

And another batch of Island Time, with a titch less alkanet for a slightly paler purple on the bottom layer. Love this so soap so much! Gorgeous fragrance – pineapple, coconut and mango. So summer, but I’d use it year round.

I have a confession to make, too. One of the batches currently incubating is probably ruined. I forgot the castor oil until it was way too late to add it. :( We’ll see, but I’m betting it’s going to be lye heavy. Any idea if a lye heavy soap can, or should, be rebatched?

Saved by a heating pad

Two challenging batches this weekend that I wasn’t expecting.

The first seized into such a hard mass that I could barely glop it into the mold. I was sure it would be a disaster, but it actually came out okay, if not the pretty, cocoa swirled, spice scented stunner I had planned.

The second seemed like it would be just fine – another Baker Street batch with a charcoal swirl, but a different fragrance oil. I tried to unmold it yesterday morning, and it was still warm and soft! I remembered Ruth from Sirona Springs using a heating pad under one of her soaps to help ensure a complete gel phase, so I brought it next door and tucked it in to a towel with a heating pad underneath. I left that on for about 12 hours – from roughly 8 am to 8 pm. I checked it again, but it was still soft. I decided to turn the pad off, but leave it insulated through the night.

This morning, I checked on it, prepared for the worst, but was relieved to find that it was cold and much, much firmer. I’m going to leave it till the end of the day today – I don’t think I risk it getting too hard – and see if I can cut it this evening. I’ll post some pictures when it’s cut.

Other than the different FO, which I had a smaller amount of, I can’t think of anything I did differently with this batch. It’s actually drier in the cottage, since I have a dehumidifier in there now. I wonder what happened? I’d have to try it again with the same FO to be sure it’s an additive issue, but maybe I just goofed on measuring, although I do measure twice. Once into a bowl, and then again into the soap pot. Strange, soapy mysteries…

Island Time

It’s not perfect, but I am really happy with how this turned out!

coconut, pineapple and mango scented soap

I made the half-circle with an annatto seed infusion on Sunday. The next day, I made the other two batches – the top is colored with madder root and the bottom is alkanet powder. All of the infusions were done in grade A olive oil, warmed then left over night to cool.

I will probably pull back on the alkanet – it’s actually darker than I wanted – while boosting the annatto a titch, but the madder root is so lovely, I think it’s my favorite color. I did a quick lather test with an end sliver, and was relieved that none of the colors bled.

And it smells incredible – perfect for summer! I’m calling it Island Time, as it’s scented with coconut, pineapple and mango. Yum! :D

I also did a straight up alkanet colored soap with lavender fragrance and essential oils. I’d also pull back on the alkanet on this one. Amazingly, I reduced it from 44% to 25% of the total olive oil, and it’s still that dark. It really must not take much!

This one is called Provence, which is probably obvious. ;)

lavender scented soap

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