Archive for » April, 2011 «

Decisions, decisions

I would just like to state for the record that there is a dizzying array of fragrance and essential oils out there. I’m literally dizzy, though, from sniffing so many!

I’ve got the blend for Silk Road solid scent down, though. Wonderful spicy, slightly sweet, still masculine.

I’m also anxiously awaiting my second scented batch of soap. I decided that the mocha coffee oil I bought was just too awesome to not try in soap, so I made a batch with coffee as the liquid, coffee grounds added, and the coffee FO. I smelled wonderful going into the mold and behaved well during mixing.

I’m anxious to see the coloration, though, since the batch of shampoo bars that I did last week have some mottling to them. I will, of course, post pictures tomorrow. :)

No more palm oil!

When I first started soaping, I read about the issues surrounding palm oil – deforestation and severe habitat loss – and decided I would try formulating soap without it. However, the first attempt I made at a batch without palm oil failed – it was nearly mush coming out of the mold – after two whole days – it was soft for months after cutting.

I didn’t give up completely however, and I’ve since made several batches without palm oil that are as hard or harder than some of my palm oil blends, and have been aging beautifully.

So I decided to try a basic, Tabula Rasa formula and the more challenging Clean Shave, without palm oil.

Palm oil helps boost the creaminess of the lather in my shaving soap, but I was pretty satisfied with the numbers I was able to pull out of SoapCalc on this bar.

shaving bar w/o palm oil

Time will tell if the lather is worth the trade off. I hope it is. I would love to be able to formulate all of my soaps without palm oil.

Oh, and I wish you could smell this bar! The cocoa butter really comes through now and it’s delicious. :)

shaving soap no palm oil

Tabula Rasa looks very good, too. This formula is close to the same one that I made Sweet Tea with, but I added jojoba.

basic unscented soap no palm oil

I’m hope my pictures are improving, although I still think I’m going to invest in a better camera. I’ve been reading about camera settings, but this little point-and-shoot is limited. Still, I can see that lighting and ISO clearly make a difference.

basic unscented bar no palm oil

I now wait for my order of essential and fragrance oils from Brambleberry! Next weekend is going to be fun! :D

In which I am a guinea pig

After a week without soap – I fell while jogging (first time in five years!) and scraped my hands up pretty good, I was able to get three test batches done yesterday.

In response to the news that hard water and my formula don’t mix well, I’ve run two batches that have higher amounts of myristic acid, hoping to improve the bubble factor. I’ve dubbed them Old Iron Tub for now, which was almost the name of the company.

I decided to try stopping gel phase by putting the first batch in the fridge. It seems it achieved partial gel, though.

no gel phase

Those rings will probably fade quite a bit over time – the very first batch I ever made, an 80/20 Olive/Coconut oil soap, had it, and it faded to obscurity after about 8 weeks.

However, I’m so pleased with the second version, which is also a no palm oil blend, that I may not worry about trying to stop gel phase.

no palm oil blend soap

A close up of the whipped texture on top.

close up

Finally, I tried my first scented soap. I had two little bottles of Wake Up Rosemary, a limited edition scent from Brambleberry that I hope becomes a permanent product. I’ve been using it to great reviews in my whipped body butter. I thought it would make a good scent for the shampoo bar, which I had planned from the start to make with rosemary and nettle tea.

I made the teas in the morning, so they would have time to cool down before I began that batch. I used bulk herbs from Mountain Rose – beautiful stuff – the nettle was a gorgeous deep green that I wish would have survived it’s encounter with sodium hydroxide, but alas, it was too fragile. The lye solution – half nettle, half rosemary tea – ended up a murky reddish brown. It may be the tea that I’m seeing in the picture below.

close up soap coloration

Then again, it may have something to do with the FO that I used. I didn’t realized it at the time, but WUR has not been tested in CP soap by Brambleberry. Whoops! Guess I’m lucky it turned out as well as it did!

shampoo bar with rosemary and nettle tea

It smells amazing right now. The soap has a lot of cocoa butter in the formula, and coupled with the FO, it smells like mint chocolate chip! I’m sure it will fade, but it’s really yummy right now. I think I finally understand why so many people like scented products. They smell effing good!

So I have a giant order of various fragrance and essential oils on their way from Brambleberry. Can’t wait till that arrives – should be here in time for next weekend’s soaping adventure.

The soaps from two weeks ago – Tomato and the Sweet Tea – are aging beautifully, too. Salad Bar still has a scent of tomato, but it smells fresher now, and Sweet Tea has a very sweet smell to it – not obviously tea, but there is something different about it that Tabula Rasa doesn’t have. Very nice.

Today I plan to make a larger batch of Pay Dirt, without cornmeal in it. I’m finding the cornmeal leaves behind way too much of an odor – it’s like washing with a tortilla chip. Although, coupled with the tomato soap, it sounds like a good snack!

Popular demand

As a consumer, I’d always been wary of the phrase “popular demand.” It seemed like a psychological trick designed to convince me that if I didn’t act soon, I might be left behind. As a creator, I’m beginning to understand that demand is hard thing to ignore, and judging how and when to answer that demand is even more difficult.

My recent posts on essential oils and animal products are evidence of the power of demand. I’ve been bothering questioning my friends about their soap habits, and so far, a majority of the responses indicate a desire, a preference for scented products, although everyone is thrilled with the way their skin feels.

I should have realized that I was in the minority, though. It took me years to find a totally unscented line of skin and hair care products. As I create new formulas and wait for my current batches to cure, I will continue to consider the advantages of expanding my strategy.

Essential or not?

I’ve been toying with the idea of adding some scents to some of the soaps, stuff I planned for the second phase, and have locked on to using essential oils. But as I’ve been reading about them, and comparing properties, I realized that many of them are contraindicated for pregnancy, or have other warnings like heightened photosensitivity or skin irritation. I’m concerned that although their healing properties make them very alluring to people, they may not be the best things to use if I’d like my products to be safe for all people at all times. I could always include a warning, but I don’t know if I’d feel entirely at ease with that.

Of course, I keep vacillating. I have an inclination to avoid scent altogether, but I know that fragrance can be very appealing.

Wonder if this even matters to people? A lot of great brands use FOs, and I am a firm believer in “Better Living Through Chemistry,” although I hope I manage to be a wee bit more ethical than Dow Chemical.

Tea and Tomatoes

Ran three miles this morning – beautifully foggy.

I unmolded the two batches I made yesterday afternoon – Sweet Tea and Salad Bar.

Sweet Tea was a bit of a stretch – I decided to try using Charleston Black Tea as the liquid, but in a formula I’d never made before – a no palm oil blend.

I’m not sure if that’s where this issue is coming from – I’m not even sure this is an issue at all. It may just be what soap made with tea does. I’ve noticed many bars that contain coffee have that little orbit around each grain of coffee.

As I was blending this batch, I kept noticing this ribbon of a reddish color – the tannins in the tea, I’m guessing – would come to the surface. I took it to heavy trace, though, so I don’t know if it could have separated at that point.

Anyway, here’s the photos:

soap made with black tea

And a close up of the rings at the edge of the bar:

soap made with black tea

As the note says, this is a no palm oil bar – just olive, coconut, avocado, castor oil and shea butter. I used 210 grams of tea as the liquid, with a 5% discount and a 30% water discount.

I suspect it’s just a ring of tannins that didn’t incorporate with the oils. Wonder if stopping gel phase would help? That ribbon of color was there as I was blending, though. Curious…

The other batch, Salad Bar, was made with tomato juice as the liquid and tomato paste added at trace. I had a little bit (56 g) of basil infused olive oil, but I don’t think it was enough to affect the bar.

It actually does smell like tomato, which I’m not sure thrills me. Although Jay has pointed out that it is a great deodorizer – especially if you get sprayed by a skunk! I love the color, though. I’m glad I let this one go through gel phase.

soap made with tomato juice and puree

This just in…

Okay, I’ve read over some of Anne-Marie’s most inspiring tweets, and I’m not going to let this hard water thing get me down.

I’ve got a bunch of new ingredients to try working with anyway. This week I received 4 oz of tussah silk, 2 oz of spearmint oil, 1 lb of beeswax, 1 lb of refined shea butter, 16 oz of jojoba oil (which has gotten deadly expensive) 10 lbs of coconut oil, and 202 oz of olive oil.

I also have some bags of Charleston black tea to play with – I may make a Sweet Tea bar today. I made some hibiscus, aka Jamaica, tea last weekend. I might give that one another go. According to Michelle at the Soap Pixie, the lye destroys the beautiful red color, but yields a tan bar.

Feedback

I sent some soap out about a week ago to some friends and family in Miami, Atlanta and Mississippi, near Biloxi. I’d been anxious to see how the soap performed in different water types.

The news out of Miami, where limestone makes for some hard water, is disappointing. The basic bar, Tabula Rasa, didn’t lather well at all, and worse – the shaving soap didn’t lather like it did here.

Now, the shaving soap does take a bit of effort to get that thick, creamy lather, but I’m wary of having to tell people it will take them a good five minutes to work up that kind of lather. I’m afraid it will turn people off.

They did say the soap worked – it felt good and got them clean, the shaving soap worked nicely with a razor – but it just didn’t have the bubbles it has here. Briny Deep gave a better lather – but that’s the almost 100% coconut oil bar. I could try making a “Hard Water” bar, without the salt and pumice…

I must admit I’m a bit stymied, and feeling kind of down about this. I knew hard water would be a challenge. I wonder what other soap makers do? I know every formula is different, but I don’t want to have to resort to adding stearic acid to boost lather.

Maybe I’ve got too much olive oil in my soap? I know it’s a wonderfully moisturizing ingredient, but it is very low on lather. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about it, and just educate the buyer that handcrafted soap isn’t likely to bubble up the way mass-produced detergents are…?

I’m going to ask my friends to try the shaving soap with distilled water – it’s very soft. That may help it lather. Maybe if I post a video of Jay working the lather up from start to finish, that might help people see the technique…

Camera Lust

Looking at the photos I’ve taken really makes me want a new camera. I’ve been looking at other bloggers’ web sites to see what sort of equipment they use. A lot are simply out of my reach right now – I’m not remotely professional and can’t justify spending over $2000 on a DSLR – without a lens or tripod!

I’m narrowing my choices down to a handful of beginner DSLRs.

The Canon XS is the most affordable right now, but I’ve got alerts listed with Tracktor to see if any of them come down in price. The newer models tend to come out in February, so everything has kind of flatlined.

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Ah, disappointment.

I made a full batch of Gold Rush yesterday. I liked the way it tested, although I tweaked it a bit (of course), adding a good bit of jojoba oil, so it’s closer to the basic Tabula Rasa formula.

The first time I made this soap, my timing was a little off. I think I overmixed it after adding the coconut milk, because it got so thick it was impossible to pour – I ended up glopping it in and then trying to swirl.

I did better with the consistency this time, but relied too much on the looseness of the batter – I didn’t swirl enough, and most of the calendula portion is laying top of the rest of the soap. Bummed.

calendual coconut milk soap

I think I’m afraid to over-mix the two colors – I know I want swirls, not a blend – but I’m thinking too much like a cook. You can’t swirl brownie mix too much, or it ends up mixed together. Apparently, soap can take a little more movement before it ends up incorporated.

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