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The Crock-Pot can mean only one thing…

Hot. Process. Soap.

I’ll admit, I’m a little nervous about the idea of “cooking” my soap, but I’m more convinced that I’d like to try offering a truly natural line, scented only with essential oils.

While there are a few that have tremendous sticking power in cold process soap, my experiments have shown that many of the more delicate oils, in particular two of my favourites – lavender and orange – cannot survive the saponification process without some damage, and sometimes a total loss of scent.

Can this be mitigated by increasing the amounts? Probably. Do I want to risk the quality of the soap by having too much EO in it, possibly leading to a greater chance of irritation and maybe a failed batch or two? Not really.

So from what I understand about the way hot process works, is that the soap is fully saponified in the pot – cooked until all the lye has reacted with all of the oils – and then, while it’s still soft, you can add fragrance and colorants and additives, which will not be affected by any free floating lye, since it will have been used up by the oils.

I’ll be referring to this old, but gold, tutorial from the Gracefruit, Ltd. blog, and this highly detailed one on Soap Making Essentials.

I’m really hoping hot process will be gentler on my essential oils, and will allow me a little more creativity with additives, for example, superfatting with luxury oils or topping with delicate botanicals such as rose petals.

Wish me luck!

Trying some new photo backgrounds

When I first started taking pictures of my soap for my web store on Etsy, I thought photographing them on a railroad track was a great idea – the lighting and the setting are natural, it fit with the theme of my label and I liked the look of the tracks.

However, getting out to the tracks with a pile of soap, my camera and tripod is no easy task – nor is it necessarily legal. Yeah… for obvious safety reasons, the railroad authorities, among others, tend to frown on active tracks being used to set up artsy tableaux for your fledgling web store.

So, I’ve been trying to come up with a safer, simpler way of showcasing my bars, without ending up behind bars.

I made a small lightbox ages ago, and while I find the pictures suitable for posting on my blog, I’m just too much of a perfectionist to put them up against the amazingly stiff competition on Etsy. I’m sure, in fact, I’m positive it has everything to do with white balance, but I just haven’t figured out how to correct it.

Moving on, I tried various poses around the house: resting in the fireplace; perched on the bathtub; next to the milk in the fridge (okay, I made that last one up); but so far I’ve not been happy with the results.

I’m trying a new background, but I’m worried that it might be too busy. I made a backdrop out of old maps – keeps the theme going, since that’s what I use to wrap my soap – and it’s kind intriguing, as the background is blurred and you can’t really see the names, but you know it’s a map.

Here’s a shot of Lucky, my clover-scented soap with nettle leaf powder, that I took the other day:

luckysept2012c

I’m still not particularly thrilled with the lighting, but I think I just need to find the right window and time of day, and since this set up is mobile, like the lightbox, it’s just a matter of timing and getting the weather to cooperate.

As always, I welcome suggestions, tips and feedback from all of you!

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Swamp Fox

Lots of new stuff in the works, including this deliciously scented bar made with pumice, activated charcoal and pure essential oils of star anise and orange.

Although it’s called Swamp Fox, and was made with the outdoor-lover in mind, I’ve found it’s a great soap to have by the kitchen sink for getting stubborn food odors like garlic, off your hands!

New Fragrance for Fall

As the weather turns cooler, I find that warmer scents are more welcome. Fragrances that would put me to sleep in the summer – spicy cinnamon & clove; sweet vanilla – are just what I need to feel that holiday lift as the days get shorter.

So this is a comforting blend of vanilla, sandalwood and heliotrope that I’ve called Orchid Thief, in recognition of vanilla planifolia, the orchid from which we get the vanilla pod.

This bar is made with a bit of cappuccino mica, to provide contrast against the natural coloring of the vanilla oils that darken the soap over time.

Weekend Soap Rumpus

I ordered another 16-bar slab mold from pawpawswoodcrafts!

Sadly, it did not arrive in time for my weekend soap rumpus, but it should be waiting at the Pony Express headquarters this afternoon.

Living in the boonies has a lot of perks, but 1 hour of postal service on Saturdays takes some getting used to.

I did make a batch of Baker Street in the slab mold, though.

Just poured:

Ready to cut:

A finished bar:

I tried something different with Island Time, but I’ll probably go back to the embedded sun motif.

The colors are spot on, though, and it was much easier to use the oxides than to have to make three separate batches.

And say “Hello” to Calico Jack, my first five color swirl!!!

I used four oxides – red, brown, green and yellow, plus titanium dioxide.

Calico Jack has a very piratical combination of bay rum, lime and tobacco. Arr!

Since nothing can follow a five color swirl, here’s the plainest soap I made all weekend: Pink Lemonade.

Just titanium dioxide to bring the brick red oxide into line. But the scent of fresh, sweet lemons is simply mouth-watering.

Swirl Wonder

After several attempts, I believe I finally have the swirl figured out! Much gratitude to Ruth at Sirona Springs for the advice. It turns out, I just needed a bit more water to help slow trace long enough to be able to work with the batter.

This first bar is scented with lavender, and the colors are a riff on Starry Night.

lavender scented soap colored with ultramarine blue and violet

I’ve also discovered that micas, ultramarines and oxides are a joy to work with, especially compared to juggling two and three separate mixes to for annatto, alkanet and madder root infusions.

This is Orchid Thief – the woody vanilla scented bar – colored with micas and oxides.

The colors in the picture below came out truer to life in my lightbox.

And this is an in the pot swirl of Head Strong, my peppermint rosemary scented shampoo bar, colored with a bit of cool, ultramarine blue.

You’re getting a sneak peak at something I’m very excited about, too! I made a soap stamp! I’m working on a video, so that you can see how easy it is to make your own stamp.

If you’re on Facebook (ha, who isn’t?), you’d make my day by “Like-ing” me.

Quick pics

I did quite a bit of soaping this weekend – I’ve been really keen to use the new slab mold I bought on Etsy from pawpawswoodcrafts! It’s brilliant! I love that the mold becomes the cutter – super easy to use!

So the first one I made was Lucky, which now features gold mica on top, to keep the theme going. :)

clover scented soap with bling

I also did a batch of Blush in the slab mold, but still didn’t get the swirl quite right. More on that in a bit, though. I used a pink mica and titanium dioxide in this batch, too, but I just couldn’t get the white of the bar to show up in the picture. It’s really not as yellow as it looks.

berry wine scented soap with pink mica

I used ultramarine and pinch of charcoal to color another batch of Briny Deep. I like this shade of stormy blue better than the greenish-blue bar that I did last week with the woad powder.

I did another batch of Fetish, too, this time with mica and charcoal for color instead of cocoa powder. This was supposed to be an in-the-pot swirl, but the soap sped through light trace and practically went to gel in the pot.

Jay loves the scent of this one – it’s rose tempered with leather – it’s floral, but earthy, grounded. I’m calling it Desert Rose. I used micas for the colorant again, and I’m really happy with the contrast. You can even see a bit of gold in there.

Although I do like the way it turned out, this was supposed to be a spoon swirl technique. However, my soap traced so quickly, that I’m going back to the drawing board on my formula.

Since the same thing happens with every fragrance and essential oil I use, I have to believe the issue is in my formula. I know shea butter can speed up trace, and I’m using quite a bit in my soap.

The dilemma I face is that I really like the formula the way it is – except that it doesn’t allow time for swirling and other techniques.

I’m going to try increasing the water amount first, which might slow trace enough to be able to work, without having to change the oil amounts. I just don’t want to end up with a soft bar or one that has to cure for 6 months!

Hello Ginger!

You are looking at the last of the palm oil soap!

I used up my last bit with this batch, a rebatch of the ginger, calendula and coconut milk soap that I just didn’t like the shape of.

This bar is massive, but it smells incredible. I added a couple sample bottles of Ginger Fish to boost the ginger fragrance. Wow. When I say it smells like Bundaberg, I mean that in the best way possible. Bundaberg is a fantastic brand of ginger beer from Australia – makes the best Dark & Stormy’s (Gosling’s Dark Rum + Ginger Beer + Lime = awesome).

So I’m taking deep breaths of this one and thinking about a trip to World Market from some Bundaberg…

ginger, coconut milk and calendula soap

Well, at least they were cheap!

So I won’t be using plastic molds again:

plastic + cold process = whoops!

Learned a few things:

1. Cold process and plastic are not always friends

2. The freezer helps a little

3. Cut plastic is sharp

Those soaps are some very small test batches – actually one batch of soap split up five ways (the fifth bar is invisible).

The top left, the oval bar, is colored with turmeric. It was bright orange going into the mold, but has faded considerably. It’s also noticeably speckled. I used about 1/4 tsp in ~3 oz of soap.

The pink bar in the middle top row is colored with madder root added directly to the soap batter, at 1/4 tsp to ~3 oz. It’s also noticeably speckled and the bits of madder powder can be felt when washing. I like this better as an infused oil, but could have application in an exfoliating-type bar.

The bluish-green, sadly more green than blue, bar, the one on the top right, is colored with woad powder added directly to the soap, at 1/2 tsp to ~3 oz. This may be too much, since the lather was noticeably bluish in color. Like the madder and turmeric, the woad powder can also be seen and felt in the soap.

The soap on the bottom is just sprinkled with a bit of nettle leaf powder.

I tested five different fragrance oils in these bars, too. I’m most pleased with the blend I came up with for Briny Deep, which is what’s in the woad colored bar.

The madder bar is scented with Energy from Bramble Berry – beautiful scent. No wonder it’s a best seller!

I’m also really happy with the invisible bar, which was left pure ivory and scented with a beautiful soft floral – lily, jasmine, lilac… All right, here’s a shoddy cell phone picture of it:

garden path floral soap

It’ll probably be a second wave soap – not the starting line up, but the next batch of fragrances.

More pics and results tomorrow! And a batch of reclaimed ginger scented soap is sleeping now…

Roses and incense

What’s your favorite scent?

Mine seems to change with every new soap I make!

I was kind of worried about making this rose scented soap, because due to early childhood exposure, fake rose smells always remind me of bathrooms. Gross.

But since it was Bramble Berry, I gave it the benefit of the doubt, and I’m glad I did!

Baby Rose is such a fresh, clean realistic rose scent, and I got the perfect shade from madder root infused olive oil. I did this one at 35% infused oil, so it came out deeper than the Berrywine scented soap from a couple weeks ago. Very pleased with this.

And it’s given me an idea for the lemon fragrance oil – Pink Lemonade! Does anyone know if madder root is susceptible to discoloring the way alkanet powder is? I have Bramble Berry’s new ebook on natural colorants, and it shows how citrus fragrance totally changed a beautiful lavender shade to an equally pretty, but totally unexpected green! That’s why it’s important to make small batches with new colors and FOs!

The reason this post was not added yesterday is because the soap on the left didn’t behave. It’s still on the very soft side of the scale, but at least it was firm enough to cut. It should cure okay, but it probably won’t be a very hard bar.

It’s scented with Nag Champa and patchouli, and swirled with charcoal powder. I had hoped the base soap would turn a darker brown, so if I make this one again I may help it along with some cocoa powder. I’m just not sure I like the scent that much… but it may just not be to my taste. It might be better without the patchouli.

I am happy with the swirl, though! I think one of the reasons I’m ending up with soft batches is that I’m still learning the difference between emulsified and thin trace.

This batch and the other Baker Street batch that was soft, were both very easy to pour – very liquid – when I swirled them. Makes for a beautiful swirl, but the soap takes longer to set.

I think I need to bring the base closer to thin trace, then separate for color, then add the fragrance oil to uncolored soap, hand stir and swirl. If it’s a fragrance I can trust I can probably add it before coloring, though.

nag champa and patchouli soap and rose scented soap

Well, I’m expecting 10 pounds of coconut oil by the end of the week, so I’m looking forward to an active three-day weekend of soaping! :)

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